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Thread: Single frame is how many fps when played back.

  1. #1
    opchee
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    Hello, I am writing up my story board for an animation project and I am trying to figure out how long each scene will be, I need to know, when you shoot single frame on super 8, how many frames per second is it when played back on a projector.

    I will be using a NIZO 156 xl to shoot with.

    If anyone has any information for me, it will be appreciated.

    Also I am going to get some close up filters, I was wondering from anyone that used them. How easy are they to use? I find a problem with super 8 is focusing using the eyepiece, so I want to use measuring tapes. but will there be a chart or something that is accurate (ie, set your focus to 4 feet, with the close up filter, everything 1/2 foot away will be in focus) ?

    Thanks

    op



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  2. #2
    MovieStuff
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    Hi, Opchee!

    The playback rate can be anything that your projector gives you. Normally, you display frames at 24fps, so each frame you shoot will be 1/24th of a second. If you put your projector on 18fps, then each frame would be 1/18th, etc. I would stick with 24fps, since that is the industry standard.

    You don't need close up filters if you have enough light and close up filters only add more glass to the equation. If you can't focus through the viewfinder now, close up filters won't help. What you need is a depth of field chart found in an old copy of the American Cinematographer's Handbook. They typically sell used for about $10.00 or so on ebay or at used book stores, if you're lucky enough to find one. A depth of field chart will show you what is in focus at any given focal length and focus setting.

    You didn't specify if you are shooting stop motion or cel animation. With enough light, you should have no problem getting things in focus for cel animation, your camera might even have a macro setting, I'm not sure. That would be ideal for cel animation.

    If you're doing stop motion, I would avoid using close up filters or the macro as this will only make your depth of field situation worse. Get a depth of field chart and follow the numbers. Works every time.

    Roger

  3. #3
    Matt Pacini
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    You always want to use 24fps for normal playback, unless you are doing speed up or slow down effects. (It will always play back in 24fps, if you're going for the professional standard. Lots of projectors play at 18fps, but the action will be jerky).


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  4. #4
    trevorbr
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    Depth of field charts can also be found in the back of The Filmmaker's Handbook by Edward Pincus and Steven Ascher. I've seen it for sale in Barnes and Noble or Borders, I can't remember. This was my text book for the one and only production class I've taken. I like it. It is a fairly thourough introduction to filmmaking of all types. There are also charts for footage/frame rates etc for various film formats.

    -trevor

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  5. #5
    opchee
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    Lightbulb

    So, you guys are saying that even though the focal length on my lens reads 4ft - infinity.. I can still focus on an object thats 1 foot away??? if I get the right light setting .. sorry I am still a rookie in many areas.

    so single frame shooting on any super 8 is irrelevant, a frame is a frame.. and the projector will play it back at 18 or 24.. thanks for clearing that up..

    I will be shooting models and objects, not cells.

    I spoke to my local super 8 shop worker and they said that the close up filters are the only thing they can think of that will let me shoot close ups that arent macro-close.. (1-2 feet away) ..

    Looks I have some homework to do .. thanks everyone for you input..



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  6. #6
    MovieStuff
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    Hi, again!

    A brief lesson in depth of field:

    When you focus on an object, you don't focus on JUST the object; you focus on an area that includes the object and extends to a degree in front of and behind the object. This area of focus is called your "field of focus". How MUCH is in focus along with your object is the depth of this field or "depth of field".

    Now, the thing to remember is that how much depth of field you have is controlled by two things that work together: Focal length and, more importantly, aperature setting. Long focal length lenses (telephoto) have shallow depth of field. Short focal length lenses (wide angle) have very deep depth of field characteristics.

    Controlling the depth of field for all focal lenghts is the aperature. The higher the aperature, the smaller the opening (like the iris in your eye in bright light) and the greater the depth of field. If your light level is low, then you must open up the aperature (just as your eye does in low light) and your depth of field will decrease to virtually nothing usable.

    So, in answer to your question, yes, even though your lens says "4 feet", you can focus on something that is right on the front element of your lens, if your camera were set on wide angle in bright sunlight (lord knows I've had my share of dirtly lens shots in the sun).

    So, get a depth of field chart and see what it says about the area of focus (depth of field) for each given focal length and aperature setting. Use plenty of light and I am sure that your focus issues will be non-issues, if you follow the charts.

    Roger

  7. #7
    fandini
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    There is a utility on this web page: http://www.dof.pcraft.com/dof.cgi, which will allow you to create your own depth of field plots. It is intended for SLR cameras but (please anyone correct me if I am wrong) the same measurements apply.

    Be careful you don?t get confused with the terminology. You said that your lens had a ?focal length? of 4ft ? infinity. The distance of the object you are focusing on is not referred to as the focal length. The focal length is a measurement within the lens that effectively determines how ?zoomed in? on an object you are. Telephoto lenses have long focal lengths and wide angle lenses have short focal lengths. Zoom lenses have a variable focal length.

    Also, to get back to the main subject, if you want to project at 24fps but don?t want to make 24 movements in your models for every second you might consider shooting 2 frames for each movement so there are 12 changes per second. This will make the action more jerky but spare you half the time in manipulating your models. You will have to decide which is more important to you.


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    Dan

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